In The Garden in Arkansas

Our winter annuals don't always thrive in the cold weather, but some do better than others. Pansies and violas struggle valiantly to rebound on warmer days, but Swiss chard and giant purple mustard won’t look good until spring, if they do come back. If you have winter annuals with damage, clean up the damaged foliage, fertilize on a mild winter day, and water if it gets dry. If the damage is on permanent plants in the landscape, ignore the damaged foliage until new growth begins in the spring. Pruning them back now will remove any buffer the damaged leaves are providing. Hopefully the damage will be minimal, or even better, you won’t have any severe winter weather—keep your fingers crossed! Pay attention to weather forecasts, and if really low temperatures are predicted and you haven’t gotten ample rain fall, water your container plants and any newly planted trees or shrubs. If plants are bone dry going into a hard freeze, you stand the chance of having more burned foliage.

February is a big month in the gardening world, with many pruning chores taking top priority. Late February is the time to start pruning fruit trees, blueberry bushes and grape vines. Proper pruning ensures top performance. Both the quality and the size of the harvested fruit will be better if you know how to prune. 

Pruning is not limited to fruit crops. All roses need annual pruning as well, and it is recommended that you prune butterfly bush (buddleia), summer spirea, and ornamental grasses back hard each year. Butterfly bush and summer blooming spirea plants bloom on new growth. Cutting them back hard keeps the plants more compact but covered with blooms. Ornamental grasses die close to the soil line each winter, so removing the old foliage makes way for new growth the following growing season. If other summer blooming shrubs need pruning, this too should be done before new growth really kicks in. This list of shrubs includes crape myrtles, althea (rose-of-Sharon), Clethra (summer sweet), Callicarpa (French mulberry or beauty berry) and the Panicle hydrangeas such as Limelight or Pinky Winky.  Don’t prune the big leaf hydrangeas unless all their new growth begins from the soil line. There are numerous types of hydrangeas, so you need to know which you have to decide when to prune. While most guidelines call for February pruning towards the end of the month, use common sense too. We have had some late springs with winter weather before, and we didn’t get around to pruning until March. Late pruning is not going to kill a plant.

By mid-February, you can begin to plant the cool season vegetables. English and snap peas are the most cold hardy, followed by greens, then the Cole crops: cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower. Transplants should begin appearing in garden centers later this month. Greens, spinach and carrots can be planted from seeds, and onion sets and transplants, along with seed potatoes, will appear at the end of the month. Cool gardening season is from February through mid-April. If you did a good job of covering any fall or late-planted vegetables, you should be harvesting now. If you did not cover, you will probably need to replant. 

Spring bulbs are beginning to make an appearance! Crocus and early daffodils are blooming some years now; we haven’t see any signs yet, but it won’t be long. After that come hyacinths, tulips and flowering onions. When you see flower buds emerging in your foliage, that is the time to put out some complete fertilizer to aid in bud set for next year.  Remember to keep the foliage happy and healthy for at least six weeks after bloom.

Plant of the Month - Ornamental Kales and Cabbages

Ornamental kales and cabbages (also known as “flowering” kales and cabbages) are in the same species as edible cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower. While ornamental kales and cabbages are edible, they tend to have a bitter flavor, so they are often relegated to an ornamental in the garden. Technically, ornamental kales and cabbages are all kales (kales produce leaves in tight rosettes while cabbages produce heads). In the horticultural trade, ornamental kale is the term used for plants with deeply-cut, curly, frilly or ruffled leaves, while the broad flat-leaved types are typically called ornamental cabbage. Ornamental cabbages and kales grow approximately one foot wide and 15 inches tall.

In some parts of the state, the winter cold can take its toll, making the plants unattractive. But, in some parts, they can take a little hit but still grow strong. They can give us a lot of winter color in shades of pink, purple and white from fall through spring, depending on the winter weather. If they are doing well, they typically begin to stretch or get leggy as warm temperatures increase in the spring, and then begin to produce some straggly yellow blooms, which signal the end of their growing season (if Mother Nature didn’t end it sooner!).

    

Now is the time to plant cool season vegetables, from onions and potatoes to greens, cabbages and broccoli, and all the others thrown in. It is too early to plant the warm season lovers, like tomatoes and peppers, but there is still plenty to plant.

It won’t be too long before we are harvesting the first crop of asparagus. When asparagus is in season, it requires a bit of attention. Harvesting every other day or so is needed to prevent the spears from becoming too large. You also want to stop harvesting when the spears are smaller than a pencil in diameter. For those who don’t have an established asparagus bed, now would be a good time to plant one. One-year-old crowns are available at most nurseries and garden centers. Work up your soil and add some organic matter. Dig a trench and spread out the crowns, lightly covering them with soil. As they grow, continue to fill in with more soil until the trench is filled back up.  We don’t begin harvesting until the crowns are 3 years old.

We are getting pretty late in the season for herbicides to be very effective on winter weeds, but you still have time to put out a pre-emergent for summer weeds. Once winter weeds begin to bloom and set seeds, damage is done. Try to mow to keep weeds from setting seeds, but hold off on using any fertilizer until your lawn grass has totally greened up—usually late April to early May. Putting out any fertilizer now is going to feed winter weeds, which don’t need any encouragement.

There is still plenty of time to prune summer blooming plants including roses, butterfly bush, and summer spirea. All fruit trees, grape vines and blueberry bushes also need pruning every year. Ornamentals won’t bloom as well if you don’t prune, and fruiting plants will not give you the quality fruit you want if you don’t prune. Do try to get the pruning done by mid-March if you can. If needed, you can prune crape myrtles, althea and abelia now too, but don’t touch the spring blooming shrubs. Those should be pruned after they bloom, not before. There may be some winter damage in landscapes on ornamentals. If you have spring blooming ornamentals such as loropetalum, azalea or gardenia with damaged leaves, take a "wait-and-see" approach. Hopefully the damage will be only cosmetic and the plants will still have flowers, but you may have to prune more.

For many gardeners, winter annuals are beginning to make a slow comeback. Fertilize pansies and violas to encourage more blooms. If your plants look really bad and you need some quick color, consider putting in some short-season color plants like English primroses, calendula, and ranunculus. You may also be able to find some pansies, dianthus and snapdragons for extra color. They have at least two more months to bloom. 

Spring bulbs should be going strong. We are well into daffodil season with tulips not too far away. Spring bulbs are an easy way to add color in a garden, but they do need to have six weeks of green growth after bloom to set flowers for next year. Crocus, daffodils and hyacinths will come back annually with minimal care, but tulips are a bit of a challenge. To ensure stunning color each spring, it is often best to plant new bulbs each fall.

We can all hope that the cold weather is behind us, but this is the month when we do still need to pay attention to weather forecasts. As plants are breaking dormancy, this is the time when they can be the most sensitive to a late freeze. Have protection on hand if it is predicted to be cold. 

Plant of the Month - English Primroses

The showy, colorful blooms on English primroses are gracing nurseries and greenhouses with delicate-looking compact plants right now. They are a sure sign that spring is on the horizon. Native to the Himalayas and cool regions of Southeast Asia and Europe, they thrive with a combination of moist, rich soil and cool, humid air. Unfortunately for us, they are not all that happy during Arkansas’ hot, humid summers, but they make a nice addition to early season color. While we usually think of just two seasons of annuals—warm season for summer and cool season for winter—we also have spring and fall. While the warm and cool season plants often extend their bloom periods into these seasons, some years we may have less color than others. “Shoulder plants,” or those that won’t last a long time but are showy and can help us through the transition, include English primroses. Whether you plant some in the ground or in containers, keep them evenly moist, but not water-logged, and they will bloom until hot weather arrives. 

    

This is a month in which I am not so sure Mother Nature can decide which season we are in. We can have summer-like conditions one day, spring the next, and then winter can reappear for a few hours. Where you live in the state will make a huge difference as to how advanced your spring-blooming plants are. However, each warm, sunny day is like a shot in the arm for our plants, and they can burst into bloom seemingly overnight.

Most plants are beginning to leaf out, but not all fully. Start assessing if you had any winter damage and begin the clean-up process. There is still time to prune summer-blooming plants such as crape myrtles, rose of Sharon, summer-blooming spirea (NOT spring-blooming bridal wreath spirea), butterfly bush and more. Don’t prune any spring-blooming plants until after they finish flowering. For evergreen shrubs such as boxwoods and holly, you can prune as needed, now through early summer. Ornamental grasses are beginning to grow, and if you have not pruned, pull back the old, dead growth to see how tall the new growth has gotten, and prune above that line. You don’t want cut edges on your new leaves.

Vegetable gardening is in full swing, but again, cooler weather may have delayed planting in some gardens. There is still time to plant cool season vegetables including lettuce, broccoli, greens and onions, but get it done by mid-month.  Wait for the soil and air to warm up before planting tomatoes, peppers and eggplants—even though garden centers have likely been selling them for over a month now! You won’t be gaining anything if you have to replant or the plants get stunted by cold nights.

Lawns are beginning to green up, but there is much competition from the winter weeds—or, as some call them, their “wildflowers.” Whichever you call them, flowering plants in the lawn mean seeds are forming and these wildflowers/ weeds will increase next year. If you aren’t enamored with the flowering weeds, try to keep them mowed now to prevent additional seed set. Many of the weeds are going to be dying out in a few weeks when warmer conditions occur. Herbicide usage now is not very effective and may actually hinder your lawn's green-up, as it is a transition  from winter dormancy to summer green. Keep the lawn area mowed and wait until it has totally greened up to apply your first round of fertilizer. Then you can worry about summer weeds.

Many gardeners are chomping at the bit to move their houseplants back outside to reclaim some of their indoor living space. But please, be patient. Even though we may be having some really warm days, we are usually still having some really cool nights, which could cause houseplants to suffer cold damage. Waiting until early May is not going to hurt, especially if you live in the northern tier of the state. If you have plants that are too pot-bound, dividing them or repotting them is a great chore to do when you do move them outside.

Winter annuals are doing well in some gardens, and in others they have barely recovered from winter damage.  If yours still look good, fertilize them and enjoy them one more month. If they are non-existent or barely there, start replanting with warm season annuals. Some will tolerate cooler temperatures better than others. You can start planting callibrachoa, verbena, petunias and begonias, but hold off on lantana, periwinkle and summer impatiens. In addition to more annuals, visit your local nurseries and garden centers to see the new selections of perennials, shrubs and trees. If you had some plant casualties, now is a great time to replace them. Consider the time of year you need color help in the garden and choose plants that can extend your color palette.

Plant of the Month - Petunias:

Petunias were originally native to South America, but the petunias that we grow today consist of a large family of hybrids derived from many species. The mature size can vary from 6 to 18 inches tall, with a spread from 18 inches to 4 feet. They can be found in every color of the rainbow in solids, contrasting veins or edges, and star patterns. The flowers may be large or small, ruffled, fringed, or double.

Some petunias may not be too happy when temperatures reach the 90s for extended periods of time, unless they have been well cared for with ample water and fertilizer. Older varieties can lose vigor and stop blooming during mid-to-late high summer temperatures. Plant breeders have tried to deal with this by developing petunia cultivars that are especially vigorous and more heat-tolerant; the Wave petunias were among the first of the these, followed by the Supertunia petunias. One of our Arkansas Diamond selections in recent years was the Supertunia Vista Bubblegum, and I have also been impressed with the Supertunia Vista Fuchsia. But, even with these heat-tolerant varieties, success can still be measured with the frequency of light fertilizer applications.

Petunias can bloom from spring until frost, provided they get enough nutrition. They can be used for color masses in the ground, in borders, in containers, in hanging baskets, or as a seasonal groundcover. They need full sun, and while tolerant of a wide range of soil types, they do best in well-drained, light soil. Purchase healthy, young petunias that are short and compact, as leggy, thin plants are slow to gain vigor. Young plants not yet in full bloom will often establish themselves faster.

   

There is still plenty of time to start planting warm season vegetables and flowers. Garden centers are abounding in options for both edibles and ornamentals.

Like flower gardens, vegetable gardens can be a bit slow after colder than-normal-temperatures, since they cause many gardeners to plant later than normal. Some gardeners can get an early harvest of lettuce, broccoli, peas, green onions, radishes, kale and Swiss chard, but others may have to wait a little longer. As you harvest and create space in the garden, replant with warm season vegetables. There is still plenty of time to plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and squash—which, for some, is their second planting! Watermelon and cantaloupe plants take up a lot of space, so consider trellising them to control the spread. Wait for the soil to warm up a bit before planting Southern peas and okra. Mulch and control weeds, fertilize and water your plants, and monitor for pests. 

If your plants froze back to the ground during the colder months, new growth should be sprouting. However, no flowers for this season, unless you are growing the reblooming varieties. If you had winter damage on trees or shrubs, give them a couple more weeks to show signs of life before pruning, unless you are certain there are dead branches.  Some plants can begin to leaf out, only to be frozen back. A week or more of warm weather should have them rebounding if there is life left. In rare instances, you might lose some less-than-hardy plants, but severe pruning may sometimes correct some of the damage. 

Loropetalum and figs have been hard hit before north of Clarksville, and gardenias have taken a hit in many parts of the state. There has also been a wide range of damage to fruit crops. Early blueberries, peaches and pecans have been hit in many parts of the state, while later blueberries and blackberries appeared fine. In the northern tier, we have also seen some winter damage to lawns. Low temperatures coupled with dry weather, as well as late freezes during transition time, all will add to the equation. Time will tell for many plants as to how much damage may have been done, and unfortunately, there is little that can be done to alter that damage once it is done.

Continue to enjoy your pansies and violas for a while if they've survived the winter, but gradually begin to replace them with summer annuals. Visit garden centers to see what new plants are arriving daily. Try some of our Arkansas Diamond selections—Vermillionaire Cuphea, Wasabi Coleus, Dragons Breath Celosia and Bouquet Purple Torenia.  We are also seeing loads of tropicals appearing at our garden centers. They thrive in hot, humid weather, which is likely just around the corner.

Now is the time to prune spring-blooming shrubs and trees if they need it. Pruning should be done as soon after flowering as possible. Be selective in how you prune. Selective thinning or knowing the natural growth of a plant results in a much more pleasing plant profile than the sheared “meatball” look. Now is also the time to fertilize trees and shrubs. Most of our woody plants only need one application of fertilizer per year.

Perennials should also be up and growing well. If you had some early plants that got nipped back by cold, clean up any damaged foliage. Lightly fertilize once they have leafed out again. Peonies may begin to set a copious amount of flowers. Before the blooms open up, consider using perennial stakes around them to prevent them from falling over after a rain. 

Webs are likely appearing in many small trees around Arkansas. For a few weeks we will have the marching of the Eastern tent caterpillars. They look much worse than they really are, but they are a nuisance and can make a mess.  The larvae gather at a fork in the tree and build a web or "tent”. They use the tent as their nightly lodging and emerge on non-rainy days to feed. The tent enlarges as the caterpillars eat. If you can reach the tents, pull them down on a cloudy day or at dusk when the caterpillars have gathered for the night, and destroy them. Luckily for us, they have a short life span and don’t have more than one generation a year (unlike their cousin, the fall webworm, which will start appearing in a month or so and can have several generations each season).

Plant of the Month - Calibrachoa

Calibrachoa is a kissing cousin to petunias and a member of the Solanaceae (or nightshade) family, which includes tomatoes. Unlike some of the other annual flowers we have grown forever, Calibrachoa was introduced into the US market in 1992, making it a relative newcomer. Native to Brazil, this plant hit the US market and hasn’t stopped, gaining in popularity each year. The small flowering plants go by many of the series names: ‘Million Bells’, ‘Mini Bells’, ‘Superbells’ and ‘Callie.’

Calibrachoa usually grow better in containers than in the ground. For non-stop flowering, fertilize every other week during the growing season, and water when dry. These plants are self-cleaning, dropping the spent flowers as they finish, so deadheading is not required. They grow best in full sun, with a minimum of six hours of sunlight a day needed for best blooming. The plants vary in habit (some types are trailing, others have a bushier habit), flower type (single or double), and size (from tiny ‘mini bells’ to larger 1 inch blooms). The biggest variation is in the color palette; they run the gamut from white, pink, red, orange, yellow, blue, purple, green and more, sometimes with a contrasting eye, a star blazoned over the base color, streaks, or splotches. Every year, new color combinations appear on the market. In a milder winter, they can overwinter in central and southern Arkansas. 

   

Since the heat is setting in, try to get any pruning chores that are needed done as soon as possible. Once it begins to get hot and dry, plants start slowing down on their growing. We want them to rebound so they can set plenty of flower buds for next year.

Big leaf hydrangeas, oak leaf hydrangeas, and gardenias will begin to bloom if they have not been winter damaged. These are three plants that bloom in the summer but set flower buds in the fall. If you grow any of these three plants and they need pruning, make sure it gets done as soon as the flowers fade. The single-flowered gardenias (Daisy and Kleim’s Hardy) tend to bloom all at once and are done quickly. They can be pruned as needed once all the flowers are gone. Many of the newer gardenias do re-bloom later in the season, so later blooms may be delayed or non-existent, depending on how much pruning is done. For big leaf hydrangeas and oak leaf hydrangeas that need to be pruned, remove older, thicker canes at the soil line after the blooms have faded.

By now, most cool season vegetables are likely beginning to bolt or stop producing as the heat increases ("bolting" is the term used for the flower stalk that appears on lettuce, greens, and onions). As cool season vegetables play out, replant with warm-season crops. Now is a great time to begin planting winter squash, pumpkins and gourds, okra, and southern peas. You can also still plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and watermelons. 

Pay attention to your gardens and monitor for insects and diseases. If you find something you are unsure of, take a good picture and send it to your county agent, or take a sample in. Early detection coupled with proper identification of a problem can lead to a fast solution.

Fertilize your tomato plants lightly about every two weeks once they start setting fruit, and make sure you water them evenly. Fluctuations in moisture can lead to quite a few issues, including blossom end rot. We typically get our first calls about blossom end rot when we have a dry spell followed by a heavy downpour. Blossom end rot starts as a water-soaked spot on the bottom of the tomato, which quickly turns black. Most gardeners think they have a disease, but it is a physiological problem—a calcium deficiency typically caused by fluctuations in moisture levels. Mulch your plants, and try to keep the moisture levels even.

Perennial plants are those that come back for at least two seasons. Right now, many are in full bloom, including purple coneflower, daylilies, gaillardia, hardy hibiscus, and lilies. One that continues to gain in popularity is the milkweed. The showiest of them is the bright orange butterfly weed, but all members of the Asclepias genus are great host plants for the monarch butterfly. As flowers end on many perennials, they begin to form a seed pod. But, allowing them to set seed delays more flowers. Deadheading (or removing the spent flowers) will direct energy back into flower production much quicker. Know the fertilizer needs of your perennials. Some like fertility such as hosta, while others require very little, such as Artemisia and lambs ear. 

Annual and tropical color choices abound at local nurseries and garden centers. No garden should be without color, so if yours is, start planting. Most annuals and tropical flowers like fertility. Frequent watering also leaches out nutrition, so fertilize every two to three weeks to keep them flowering. As with vegetables and shrubs, monitor your flowers weekly to scout for insects or diseases. 

Plant of the Month - Periwinkle 

Periwinkle or annual vinca (Catharanthus roseus) is a tough and durable annual flower for the garden. As it is native to Madagascar, another common name for it has been Madagascar periwinkle. This annual was once the staple annual in commercial landscapes until sprinkler systems became the norm. With frequent overhead watering, the plants developed a disease problem called stem canker, which led to their dying and falling out of favor. Through advances in plant breeding, we now have varieties with good disease resistance to stem canker, and the plant is once again becoming a staple in home landscapes.

Periwinkle plants can be upright in growth habit or spreading. Flower colors can vary from shades of pinks, reds, whites and purples, with some interesting bi-color combinations coming soon. Some have a bright center eye, while others are a solid color. The foliage is a bright, glossy green with white veins. The plants perform best in well-drained soils with full sun. Water mainly to get them established; they are one of the most drought-tolerant annuals we grow. Foliage will curl if they begin to get too dry, which is a good sign to water. Moderate fertilizer needs. The flowers do not need dead-heading, as they will drop when they finish. The plants are covered in blooms all summer long.  Another added bonus is the plant is poisonous, so deer and rabbits will leave it alone.

Some excellent series to try include: Cora and Cora Cascade (an upright and a spreading form). These come in a wide range of colors from pure white to blush, shades of pink, and lavender with single and bi-color options. The Cooler and Titan series are also disease resistant. Coming soon are some outstanding color choices in the Tattoo series; unfortunately, they are not disease resistant, but they would still make some good container choices.

  

 

This is the time of year when a rain gauge comes in handy, as well as knowing how much water your personal garden needs. There is no set formula that works for every garden. Factors that apply include what you are growing, how much sunlight they get, what type of soil or bed they are growing in, and how much rainfall you are getting. Plants in containers are always going to dry out faster than plants in the ground. Soil-less mixes usually dry out faster than garden soil. Mulching will definitely help. Get to know your garden and your plants, and do what works best for you.  Early-morning deep-watering is best, but you have to work with your schedule.

With frequent watering, nutrition gets leached out. If you are growing trees and shrubs, they should do fine with one application of fertilizer per year—usually applied in the spring. Annual flowers and vegetables need the most nutrition. When temperatures are hot, water your plants well before fertilizing, and then water the fertilizer in. Frequent, light applications are best to avoid burning. 

Vegetable gardens are likely producing at their peak right now. Peppers, squash, tomatoes, and eggplants should be coming in well. Harvest regularly to keep them setting more fruit. It is not surprising for tomatoes to slow down in production during periods of hot weather. When temperatures exceed 95 during the day and/or stay above 75 degrees at night, flowers stop setting fruit. Existing fruit often slows down and is slower to ripen. Keep your plants evenly watered and fertilized, and as soon as there is a break in the weather, they should rebound and begin to produce again. If you have plants that are on their way out, harvest what you can and then replant with new tomatoes or other vegetables. The key is to keep them watered to get them established, but there is a lot of gardening season left to grow in.

If you still need some color in your garden, there is still plenty to choose from at local nurseries and garden centers.  Tropical flowering plants are still arriving and this is their season—they love it hot and humid. Water and fertilize weekly and they will bloom non-stop. Many summer blooming perennials are in their prime at this time of year, from the dinner-plate sized blooms on hardy hibiscus, to non-stop color on coneflowers, gaillardia, coreopsis, and rudbeckia. Summer annuals also flower well if they have been watered and fertilized. Lantana, vinca, Cuphea, zinnias, and ornamental sweet potatoes thrive in hot weather. Many of these flowers need dead-heading after bloom to keep them flowering all season.

Scout your garden frequently looking for pest problems. Pests include insects, diseases and weeds. We have seen aphids, scale, white flies and spider mites, along with stink bugs, caterpillars and more. Know which insects are good and which are bad. If you are trying to attract butterflies, don’t kill the caterpillars that are eating your milkweed or dill—you want to see the butterflies, but if tomato hornworms are chomping on your tomatoes, or corn earworms are eating your corn, then you want to control them. 

Diseases can spread quickly from plant to plant. We have had quite a few reports of rose rosette, septoria leaf spot on tomatoes, and some powdery mildew. We have also had reports of herbicide damage to ornamental landscape plants. Be sure to read and follow the label directions if you are applying herbicides to your lawn and if you have landscape beds nearby or trees growing in the lawn. Some of the chemicals used can cause problems. If you have problems in your landscape, properly identify what is happening. Take a plant sample in or take good pictures and get them to your local county agents. The earlier you spot a problem and identify it, the sooner you can handle it. 

If you aren’t growing a vegetable garden or raising your own fruit, visit one of the many farmers' markets in the state.  Besides all the wonderful, fresh vegetables that are out there, they have blueberries, blackberries and peaches—eat local and fresh!

Plant of the Month - Impatiens

Impatiens are the most popular flowering annual for the shade in Arkansas gardens. Native to Tanzania and Mozambique, they come in a wide range of colors and will grow and bloom until frost in light to heavy shade, provided they get ample moisture and fertilization. Today, though, impatiens are not just shade plants. Newer to the market are the Sunpatiens—large flowered annuals which will grow in full sun to light shade. In deep shade, they are not as full-flowering. Unlike some of the early touted sun-loving impatiens (which required you stand next to them with a garden hose), these will tolerate slightly drier conditions than most impatiens. Some gardeners still prefer to give them a bit of afternoon shade, but with just average moisture and fertilization, these Sunpatiens have been performing quite well across the state. Each year, we see a larger color palette. With larger foliage and flowers than common impatiens, these can make a dramatic color splash in the garden. Regardless of your light conditions, there is an impatiens plant for any garden.

         

Pay attention to the weather and know how much rainfall your garden receives.  Success in your garden will still be measured by how well you manage your water needs.  Heavy, quick downpours help, but often more water runs off than penetrates.  A nice slow, steady rain is what we would like, but sometimes we don’t get what we want or need.  Supplemental watering is usually a given for many landscapes, but requirements vary with what plants you are growing.  Know what your plants need to help them thrive.

Staying indoors and enjoying the air conditioning sounds appealing when heat indexes are over 100 degrees, but there are gardening chores that can be done, and unbelievably August is the time to begin planting a fall vegetable garden. You can plant both cool season and warm season crops now.  Plant peppers, tomatoes and squash for a fall harvest and mid-month cool season transplants of broccoli, cabbage and the like will start arriving.  You can also seed greens, green beans, and lettuce later in the month.  Water and mulch will be vitally important to get these new vegetables established this time of year!

If you have been watering your summer vegetable garden, you should still be harvesting.  Peppers, eggplants and okra are plentiful in many gardens now.  Tomatoes may be a bit slow right now.  When daytime temperatures are above 95 or nighttime temperatures are above 75 degrees, tomatoes take a siesta.  Ripening is slowed down and new tomatoes are slow to set.  If your plants are still healthy, keep watering and once the weather evens out (fingers crossed) they should begin to bear again.   

This summer has been a good trial for many of our summer annuals. Which plants are doing well in your garden and which aren’t?   Annual vinca or periwinkle looks amazing in many gardens and I am duly impressed with Sunpatiens.  Lantana, pentas and zinnias are also thriving in full sun in this heat.  If you have been watering, your common impatiens are doing well in the shade and the Dragonwing begonias look good too.  If your plants have slowed down in their blooming, check your nutrition.  Annual flowers like fertilizer and as much as we have watered or gotten rain, nutrients do leach out.  Use caution when fertilizing when it is extremely hot and dry or you can burn your plants.  Use regular light applications and water it in well and your flowers should come back.

For all-summer blooming perennials and shrubs, know whether they set seeds or are self-cleaning and drop spent flowers.  If your plants are trying to set seeds you will be in the seed business and not the bloom business.  Deadhead the spent blooms to direct energy away from seed set and into more blooms.  Plants that benefit from regular deadheading are coneflowers (Echinacea), blanket flower (gaillardia), coreopsis and black-eyed Susan (rudbeckia).  Summer spirea, some butterfly bushes (buddleia) roses and crape myrtles will also rebloom if you cut off spent flowers. 

For all our talk on watering annuals, vegetables and containers, don’t forget about your spring blooming trees and shrubs now either.  I have already seen new flower buds for next spring on camellias, tulip magnolias and dogwoods.  More will be setting on other spring blooming trees and shrubs from now through September.    If they get too stressed or dry, they won’t set as many buds.   Encore or repeat blooming azaleas are beginning to produce new blooms now and should continue through fall.  No more pruning should be done to any spring blooming plants—including the reblooming azaleas.  Treat them just like spring bloomers and only prune after bloom in the spring.   For now, all that you do is monitor water needs for all spring blooming plants.  No more fertilization or pruning is needed.

Tropical flowering plants are in their element with this heat and humidity, but they do like a little water and some fertilizer.  Regular fertilization will keep them blooming for another two to three months.  You may also be able to find some good bargains on summer tropical plants at area nurseries now, so if you need a boost in color, go shopping.  They do well in containers or planted in the ground, but if growing in containers, the bigger the better to help you keep them watered.  Small pots dry out very quickly these days, especially in full sun.

Lantana

One of the toughest summer annuals in the garden is the lantana. The original shrubby lantana, Lantana camara, is native to Central and South America.  This is the old-fashioned lantana that can grow 3- 6 feet tall and sets seeds after it blooms.  It has been added to the invasive plant list in Florida, and the gulf coast, but is not invasive in Arkansas.   Trailing lantana is Lantana montevidensis and grows up to 4 feet wide but grows only 8-12 inches tall.  Flower colors on this one are lavender or white.  Most lantanas that we have in gardens centers today are hybrids and mature size can vary widely.  Depending on where you live in Arkansas lantanas may be an annual or a perennial.  In south Arkansas it is a perennial while in central Arkansas it can be hit-or-miss depending on the winter, and in north Arkansas most varieties are always annuals.  Lantanas bloom best in full sun.  Mature size can vary from 8 inches tall to 4-5 feet in height depending on which variety you are growing.  The flowers consist of a flower head made up of a cluster of tiny blooms.  They may all be the same color—in yellow, white or red or each flower head may have a variety of colored individual tiny blooms.  Lantana plants are considered toxic so usually are not eaten by deer or other animals, but they are great pollinator plants attracting both bees and butterflies.  Although they are very drought tolerant once they are established, they will bloom better with average moisture and fertilization.

   

                                                                                                        

Who knows what the fall and winter will be like, but we are heading into the fall season in better shape than expected.  Lawns have greened up again, plants are perking up and vegetable gardens are still producing.  September usually brings us a first taste of fall-like weather, but overall we are typically still hot and dry.  Last year, September marked the beginning of a dry spell.  Pay attention to what the weather throws at us and be prepared to water as needed.  Keep in mind that spring blooming plants are finishing up setting blooms for next year now, and we want them healthy and happy as they head into winter.

Vegetable gardens are often also in flux. Some gardeners are still harvesting with regularity while other gardens have totally played out.   If your garden is still good, keep harvesting and gradually begin to fill in the blanks with fall vegetables.  If your garden is a lost cause, practice good sanitation and clean it up and begin to replant for fall. Many edible gardeners are now gardening year-round with limited winter protection, including high tunnels ore just moderate frost protection.  We should see vegetable transplants arriving at local outlets soon.  If you can find some new tomato plants, they can also continue to bear until a killing frost. You can seed carrots, lettuce, spinach, kale and other greens now.  Mulch any new plantings and be prepared to water

Recent rains, following dry conditions have caused some disease issues on some ornamentals.  Leaf spot diseases and mildew have been a common problem on many plants late in the season.  I doubt you will find many hydrangeas without a spot here and there, or peonies dying back, or spots on dogwood leaves.  Don’t worry and don’t start a spray program this late in the season.  For now, rake up any fallen, damaged leaves, cut back perennials as they die back, water if dry and mulch.    Perennials that have started dying back are heading into dormancy, and will return next spring. That includes peonies, lilies, and bleeding hearts.  Trees and shrubs with damaged foliage should be monitored for leaf fall.  Once that begins, rake it up and clean it up and start fresh next spring.  Don’t prune trees and shrubs now, especially spring bloomers, as they have set their flower buds for next spring.

For some reason hot, dry conditions don’t seem to hurt our weed crop like they do desirable plants.   In the lawn, it is too late to worry about herbicide usage, but mowing can help prevent seed set.  In flower beds and vegetable gardens, attack with a good sharp hoe.  If allowed to grow unchecked, the seeds they leave behind will cause problems for years to come.

Summer annuals and flowering tropical plants may need a bit of fertilizer now to keep blooming until frost.  All the rains we had, cut down on our watering duties, but they still leached out the nutrition in the soil and particularly in containers.  Fertilization will keep them blooming better.  If your summer annuals haven’t survived, it is a bit too early to plant pansies and violas, but you can plant marigolds, ornamental peppers and begin planting ornamental (and edible) kale, mustard and cabbage. 

Annuals aren’t the only way to add flower color.  Summer perennials are still going strong with Echinacea, rudbeckia and gaillardia, but to add to the mix the fall perennials are starting a show with Chelone (turtlehead), Tricyrtis (toad lilies) and Japanese anemones, for the shade and goldenrod, asters and salvias for the sun.  We are beginning to see good plumes on ornamental grasses as well.   Chrysanthemums will soon be available at garden centers.  While they are perennials, many gardeners do grow them as annuals.  Pumpkins and gourds are also popping up and spring blooming bulbs for fall planting are beginning to make an appearance.  You can buy your bulbs now, but let it cool off a bit before planting.  Large, firm bulbs will give you the best display next spring. If you have room in your refrigerator you can pre-chill the bulbs before planting, but that isn’t a requirement.

Marigolds

Marigolds are one of the oldest common annuals grown in southern gardens.  They have been credited for repelling insects, animals and nematodes, but they also attract spider mites when grown in late spring and early summer. Spider mites do not seem to be a problem in the late summer or fall marigold garden.  Grown easily from seed, they can be in bloom in a relatively short period of time after planting, and should not be overlooked as a late summer/fall annual.  You can also find blooming plants to transplant now into your garden.  While they are not winter hardy, they will bloom until a killing frost, which usually doesn’t occur until mid to late November or later. 

Many gardeners think all marigolds are yellow or orange, but there are many interesting combinations of colors.  Marigold flowers can be single, semi-double, or double, in colors ranging from white or yellow to orange, gold, and red with some striped blooms in the mix.  Shorter varieties are called French marigolds, Tagetes patula, while large flowered tall marigolds are called African marigolds, Tagetes erecta.   In spite of the common names, neither is native to France or Africa, but do come from Mexico.  Marigolds have a strong scent in both their flowers and foliage, which some people find offensive, but is often seen as a deterrent for animals in the garden.

Marigolds thrive in full sun.  Deadhead them as they finish blooming to keep more blooms coming.  With their range of colors, they blend in beautifully with a fall garden.

    

We seem to be swimming out of September this year which is a huge departure from the droughty September of last-year.  Our yards and gardens are green and growing, but we have seen some plant damage from the heavy rains and water-soaked yards.  For the most part, spring-blooming plants have set or are setting flower buds.  Look at your camellias, dogwoods, tulip magnolias and rhododendrons and you will see a wealth of flower buds waiting for next spring.  October is a big transition month from warm season to cool season.  There is planting to be done, bulbs to be planted, raking and composting and harvesting.  We are all ready for cool weather.   

Clean-up and planting can be done in both the vegetable garden and the flower garden. As vegetables, annuals and perennials play out, pull them and add them to the compost pile—if they weren’t diseased.  Now is a great time to start a compost pile with all the needed raw materials. 

When you open up a space in the garden, replant.  Vegetable transplants are readily available now, along with winter annuals including pansies, violas, kale, cabbage and Swiss chard which make and perennials.  October is also a great time to plant wildflower seeds and transplants.  Make sure the site is clean of weeds and debris before planting or you will end up with a mess next growing season.

If your yard needs some instant color and a pick-me-up, you have plenty of pumpkins and gourds to choose from.  Pumpkins don’t just mean orange—there are whites, striped, splotched, green, almost black, and yellow.  The skin may be smooth or rough, with some looking like they are covered in popcorn. Pumpkins are in the cucurbit family and are often sold side-by-side with gourds and winter squashes which expand the color palette and shapes.  Group 5 or 6 pumpkins with a few mums and a cornstalk or two and you have instant landscaping that can last for a month or more.  Try to choose blemish free fruits with a healthy stalk attached.  Elevating them off of bare soil can also keep them from rotting more quickly.  Occasionally squirrels and other animals may start feeding on them, so monitor them.

October is the month we begin to transition houseplants and tropical plants back inside.  Any plants that you have inside the home for the winter months should be moved while inside and outside conditions are similar.  Waiting until right before a killing frost, has plants exposed to really cool temperatures, and moving inside to a heated house can cause them to suffer tremendously.   Check for insects before making the move. If you have plants with obvious problems, isolate them until you get the problem under control. Indoors, insects can move from plant to plant quite easily.  Cut back on how much water you are using.

Spring bulbs from daffodils to tulips are available at nurseries and garden centers.  Plant once the soil cools off and don’t plant when the soils are water-logged.  Bulbs are typically planted 2-2 ½ times as deep as they are large.  If you have tender summer bulbs that you want to save and replant, October to early November is the time to dig them up.  Caladium bulbs and fancy elephant ears need to be dug and stored before or immediately after the first frost. Most of our common green elephant ears are winter hardy in Arkansas.  When digging bulbs, cut off the tops and shake as much of the soil off as possible.  Let them air dry on a layer of newspapers in your garage for a few days.  Then get as much of the dry soil off and store them in a cardboard box.  Shipping peanuts or shredded paper work well to layer them in.  You don’t want them crowded in together or they can rot during storage.  Store in a cool, dry place until next spring.

Pansies:

One of the most popular cool season bedding plants are the pansies.  Pansies, Viola X Wittrockiana, come in a variety of sizes, colors and types.  Colors range from blues, reds, yellows, white, orange, pink and purple and even a black variety.  There are solid colors without faces, to bi-colors with contrasting faces, to blended colors, giving you a mix of colors in each bloom. Intense breeding has developed flowers that can get as large as four and a half inches across, on lovely green foliage and now there are spreading pansies as well as upright forms.  Some have a black blotch while others are clear.   It is hard to believe that these large, brightly colored flowers are descendants of the quiet, diminutive woodland violets.  Pansies thrive in cool weather, and will bloom from now until hot weather causes them to decline next summer.  Plant them in a well-drained location with moderately rich soil.  They will grow in full sun to partial shade.

Pansies can be planted from late September through November, even in to early December.  When planting late in the season, be sure to choose strong, healthy plants with blooms on them.  If you plant young, small plants during the later planting, you may wait until spring for any blooms. 

Pansies also make ideal container plantings. Regular watering will need to be included in their care--even when it is cold.  It is especially important prior to a heavy freeze.  They don't need to be saturated, but they do need to be moist. Fertilize periodically throughout the winter. 

    
                        

 

 Now is the transition time from active growth to dormancy.  Clean-up in the garden is ongoing, but we typically have a lot of plant material we can add to a compost pile.  How happy and healthy you end your garden can determine how well it starts growing next spring. 

November is the ideal time to plant a new tree.  Soils still have some residual heat, we often get ample rainfall in fall and winter and while the trees are dormant, they can get busy putting on roots, before they have to worry about supporting leaves and new growth.  Choose trees based on mature size.  If you are looking for a particular fall foliage color, choosing it when it has fall color can help you determine what you want.  Be sure to look up when planting  a tree—avoid planting under power lines or your tree won’t be able to reach its full potential. 

November also marks the beginning of the dormant season which runs from November through February.  Cut back perennials as they finish for the year, pull out the spent summer annuals and rake leaves.  If you have hardy trees, shrubs or perennials that need to be moved from one part of your yard to another, now is a great time to move them.  Just as I mentioned above, roots will get re-established more quickly when they are not supporting active new top growth.  Be careful when digging plants  when the temperatures are really cold, so that you don’t expose the roots to cold temperatures or drying winds for very long.  Have the new hole ready before uplifting the plant. Plants that sometimes struggle in a cold winter such as hydrangeas, azaleas and figs should be moved at the end of the dormant season to allow the bulk of winter weather to pass before moving.

Many gardeners had summer annuals that were still thriving last month.  If you haven’t planted your winter annuals yet, do so soon.  From pansies and violas to dianthus, flowering kale or cabbage, there are a lot of ways to add seasonal color to a garden.  You have through mid-December to plant seasonal color, but having a chance to get the root system established before really cold weather hits will help them handle cold weather better. 

November is also a great time to plant spring flowering bulbs.  Tulips, daffodils, crocus and hyacinths are planted as dry bulbs. They need chilling hours which they get naturally during the winter months, which help them grow and reach their full potential.  Plant your bulbs two to three times the size of the bulb, deep in the ground.  You don’t have to fertilize at planting, since the bulbs contain everything (flowers, foliage and stems) when you buy them.  They set their blooms for the following season in the spring after they finish blooming.  Once they go dormant, they are all set to go the next year.

Many home gardeners are growing vegetables year-round now outdoors. With the availability of season extenders, or just some ingenuity of creating protection for the plants, they can take even the coldest of temperatures.  Most cool season vegetables will be able to tolerate temperatures to about 28 degrees without protection, but will need to be covered if temperatures are lower, or if it is a clear, still night.  Overturned boxes, flower pots or small high tunnels can add the protection you need.  Many of these cool season vegetables actually taste sweeter when grown in the cooler months.  Some vegetable transplants are still available, so plant soon and keep them watered and fertilized and you can be harvesting vegetables all winter. 

We have had a taste of cool weather statewide, and some have had a frost.  Now is the transition time from active growth to dormancy.  Clean-up in the garden is ongoing, but we typically have a lot of plant material we can add to a compost pile.  How happy and healthy you end your garden can determine how well it starts growing next spring. 

November is the ideal time to plant a new tree.  Soils still have some residual heat, we often get ample rainfall in fall and winter and while the trees are dormant, they can get busy putting on roots, before they have to worry about supporting leaves and new growth.  Choose trees based on mature size.  If you are looking for a particular fall foliage color, choosing it when it has fall color can help you determine what you want.  Be sure to look up when planting  a tree—avoid planting under power lines or your tree won’t be able to reach its full potential. 

November also marks the beginning of the dormant season which runs from November through February.  Cut back perennials as they finish for the year, pull out the spent summer annuals and rake leaves.  If you have hardy trees, shrubs or perennials that need to be moved from one part of your yard to another, now is a great time to move them.  Just as I mentioned above, roots will get re-established more quickly when they are not supporting active new top growth.  Be careful when digging plants  when the temperatures are really cold, so that you don’t expose the roots to cold temperatures or drying winds for very long.  Have the new hole ready before uplifting the plant. Plants that sometimes struggle in a cold winter such as hydrangeas, azaleas and figs should be moved at the end of the dormant season to allow the bulk of winter weather to pass before moving.

Many gardeners had summer annuals that were still thriving last month.  If you haven’t planted your winter annuals yet, do so soon.  From pansies and violas to dianthus, flowering kale or cabbage, there are a lot of ways to add seasonal color to a garden.  You have through mid-December to plant seasonal color, but having a chance to get the root system established before really cold weather hits will help them handle cold weather better. 

November is also a great time to plant spring flowering bulbs.  Tulips, daffodils, crocus and hyacinths are planted as dry bulbs. They need chilling hours which they get naturally during the winter months, which help them grow and reach their full potential.  Plant your bulbs two to three times the size of the bulb, deep in the ground.  You don’t have to fertilize at planting, since the bulbs contain everything (flowers, foliage and stems) when you buy them.  They set their blooms for the following season in the spring after they finish blooming.  Once they go dormant, they are all set to go the next year.

Many home gardeners are growing vegetables year-round now outdoors. With the availability of season extenders, or just some ingenuity of creating protection for the plants, they can take even the coldest of temperatures.  Most cool season vegetables will be able to tolerate temperatures to about 28 degrees without protection, but will need to be covered if temperatures are lower, or if it is a clear, still night.  Overturned boxes, flower pots or small high tunnels can add the protection you need.  Many of these cool season vegetables actually taste sweeter when grown in the cooler months.  Some vegetable transplants are still available, so plant soon and keep them watered and fertilized and you can be harvesting vegetables all winter. 

Swiss Chard-- Beta vulgaris Beta vulgaris var. cicla

While Swiss chard is an excellent edible vegetable, it also makes a very showy winter ornamental.  Swiss chard is a kissing cousin of the common beet, but we grow this for leaf and stem production as an edible, but the showy stem or petiole is what makes it shine in the ornamental beds.  Swiss chard is easy to grow and will last almost year-round in Arkansas, but it is particularly showy in the fall, winter and early spring garden because of its colorful stalks and large glossy leaves.  The leafstalk can be a variety of colors including red, white, yellow or orange.  Candy cane is a variety with red and white striped petioles.  

Although Swiss chard prefers cool weather, it does not bolt (or go to seed) as quickly as many other cool season vegetables.  The plant produces a small bulbous root, and if it is frozen back or cut for harvest, it can produce another set of leaves from the root system, which increases your harvest.  It can suffer some top damage if temperatures get below 26 degrees. A light covering for a day or two will protect it and it should bounce back.

Swiss chard can be planted from seed or transplant, but if you want it in your garden now, transplants are required. This is one plant that makes a beautiful edible ornamental. 

     

      

 If you had winter vegetables that were not covered, they may have been nipped a bit, but should bounce back.  Even an upturned pot covering can protect them enough to make it through on really cold nights.  If you have some burned leaves on ornamental kale or cabbage, clean them up.  On one of the milder days, fertilize your winter vegetables and winter annuals. 

If you have some damaged leaves after the last cold snap, don't do anything about it. We are just heading into the winter season and pruning now would expose more of your plant to damage.  Unless you see broken branches, leave them be until spring.  When we get well below freezing, your plants may look wilted or shriveled, but they are frozen. Frozen plants can be quite brittle, so leave them alone and wait for the temperatures to come above freezing.  If we do get any winter precipitation, same rules apply. Ice or sleet on plants should be ignored.  If you have heavy snow accumulations, lighten the load gently so you don't break branches in the process.

Many of us were in the midst of holiday activities when we got our first killing frost. If you have time, clean up the garden removing the spent summer annuals, and clean up the perennials.  If you still have leaves in the garden, continue to rake.  By now the majority of the leaves are off the trees.

Sasanqua camellias are still looking great in the garden.  A few flowers may have been zapped by the cold, but there are many more flower buds that can open over the next month.  If your garden lacks winter color, consider adding some Sasanqua camellias, deciduous hollies for their beautiful berries or the perennial hellebores which are putting on a show.

Our houses often look a bit bland after we take down the holiday décor, but if you received a poinsettia, they can continue to add color for months, if you give them the right care. Bright sunlight and even moisture can keep the colorful bracts showy.  Amaryllis bulbs can also add instant color.  These large bulbs produce large showy blooms on a tall stalk.  But beware they can become a bit top-heavy, so weighing down the pot can help support them.

The saying “if you don’t like the weather today, just wait until tomorrow” could not be more applicable these days.  While the entire state has had some light freezes, and some parts have had a hard, killing frost, the majority of the state is still seeing summer blooming annuals, and lingering tropical flowers.  We go through all four seasons in 24 hours some days.  This is tough on people, but even harder on the plants that must decide what season it is.  In addition to the warmer temperatures, we have been really dry.  When the temperatures gets cool, it often misleads people to think that their watering days are over.  Monitor the rainfall, or lack thereof, and water when dry.  There are many wilting plants out there.  Dry plants will be more sensitive to winter damage.  Pay particular attention to newly planted trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals.  Plants in containers also dry out faster than those in the ground, so water.  We may not have to water daily like we do in the summer, but water is still important for survivability.

While some summer annuals are still blooming, so are the cool season annuals.  If you haven’t planted your winter annuals, there is still time. The key is to look for blooming pansies and violas, and larger flowering kale, Swiss chard and purple mustard.  Small non-blooming plants will not give you much in the way of color until spring, so buy more established plants, plant, fertilize and water and they should give you instant color and last all winter.  If you have already planted, fertilize monthly during the growing season.

Raking is definitely needed in most yards.  Leaves were falling early this year, and the high winds in November felled most of the foliage, but there are still some leaves left on our trees.  A heavy layer of whole leaves on your lawn shouldn’t last all winter or it can damage the lawn.  Rake them and if possible shred them and add them to the compost pile, or use the shredded leaves as mulch in the garden.

It is bulb planting time.  Through December you have ample time to plant daffodils, tulips, crocus and more.  Speaking of bulbs, a popular indoor flowering bulb is the amaryllis and the bulbs are readily available now.  These large bulbs produce huge, showy blooms in shades of red, pink and white.  With proper care, they can live for years giving you larger and longer blooming flowers each season.  The plants do get quite tall and can be top-heavy, so weight them down or use a larger pot to plant them in.  Turn the plants periodically to keep them from leaning.  Once they begin to grow, you should see a bloom in 6-8 weeks. 

Poinsettias are still the number one holiday plant and they are everywhere.  From the orange colored ones available at Thanksgiving to red, white, pink and multi-colored plants, there is a poinsettia for every home.  With plenty of sunlight and even moisture the plants can stay showy for months.

If you planted a late fall or winter garden, the vegetables are doing nicely.  Continue to water when dry and fertilize periodically too.  Most cool season vegetables thrive in cool weather, but may need a bit of extra covering when temperatures fall below 26-28 degrees.  Frost damage is always worse on a cold still night.  Overcast or windy nights tend to help prevent heavy frost accumulations. 

Pecans

Pecans are synonymous with the holidays in the south.  They are native to North America, from Texas to Illinois.   Native Americans were using pecans extensively long before the European settlers came.  They pressed the oils for seasoning, ground them into meal to thicken stews, cooked them with beans, and roasted them for long hunting trips.  While many still harvest and use native pecans, through plant breeding, the size and quality of the nut has grown substantially over the years.

Pecan trees grow best in a long, warm growing season, without much of a temperature drop at night, which is why they are a southern crop. Further north the hican, a cross between a pecan and a hickory tree are grown, which are more tolerant of cold weather. 

To produce nuts, you need at least two varieties for cross-pollination.  Pecan trees produce separate male and female flowers on the same tree.  However, they are usually not in bloom at the same time on the same tree.  Some varieties shed their pollen before the female flowers are receptive.  Therefore they need pollen from another variety that matures its pollen a little later. 

Nut size will vary with the variety, age of tree, size of the crop and moisture conditions during the growing season until shell hardening.  Most trees will start to produce pecans within five to eight years depending on variety, growth rate and location. 

Harvesting pecans occurs from mid-October through November, and occasionally into December.  For home harvesting, gathering falling nuts can be an option, but you usually have to fight the squirrels, who are master nut gatherers.  Unlike smaller growing apple and pear trees, pecans trees are quite large at maturity, growing up to 150 feet tall with a wide spreading canopy.  Since at least two trees are needed, this can quickly fill up a standard home landscape.  Although they do serve as a good shade tree, harvesting quality nuts in a home situation can be tricky.  There are several diseases and insects which attack them, and commercial growers are better equipped to spray for these problems.  Due to their large size, it is difficult, if not impossible for home gardeners to spray for control. For this reason, consider pecan trees as a shade tree, and if you get quality nuts that is a bonus. 

While there are not many citrus trees that can survive outdoors in Arkansas, many home gardeners are raising lemons, limes and even oranges.  They grow them in large pots outside for the summer months and then move them indoors or into a hobby greenhouse for the winter.  Probably the easiest of the citrus plants to grow indoors are Meyer lemon and the Calamondin orange, but once you get the knack of it, branch out and you can have your own "orangery" indoors.  Dwarf varieties are more suited to indoor and pot culture. Citrus trees need bright light--up to 12 hours per day would be great, but need at least 6-8 hours.  If you don't have a bright sunny window, there are now great indoor plant lights available.  The size of the container can be an issue. The bigger the pot, the bigger the plant can grow, but the larger the container, the more weight is involved which make moving it inside and out a problem. Opt for a large lightweight container, and make sure it has drainage holes.  Use a lightweight potting soil. Indoors, cut back on the watering during the winter months. Even though they don't go dormant indoors, they usually slowdown in their growth inside during the winter months.  Humidity is also low inside during the winter because of heaters. To increase humidity, you can put the pot on top of a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it raises the humidity.  Fruit trees don't like wet feet, so don't let them stand in water, and let them dry out a bit in between watering. Make sure all chances of frost have passed before you move them outdoors for the summer. Citrus plants make beautiful and fragrant houseplants, and the edible showy fruits are a bonus as well.