Home Lawn Weed Control

Good cultural practices account for 60 to 70 percent of turfgrass weed control. Maintaining a dense, vigorous lawn is essential to prevent lawn weeds.

Using herbicides

Herbicides should be considered a supplement, not a stand-alone weed control practice. If herbicide use is not accompanied by proper cultural practices, the weed problem will return because the deficiency, which led to weed invasion, has not been corrected. When herbicides alone are used, the symptoms – not the cause – of a weedy lawn are being treated.

Weeds are often indicators of specific problems. Conditions such as low fertility and saturated or compacted soil favor weeds over turfgrass. Soil compaction may lead to encroachment of prostrate knotweed, annual bluegrass, path rush and goosegrass. Poor drainage encourages invasion by sedges, rushes and Virginia buttonweed. The presence of legumes such as white clover and lespedeza is often an indication of low nitrogen levels. Cultural and environ­mental problems should be corrected before embarking on a program of herbicide use.

Aerifying

Aerifying to relieve compaction may be necessary for lawns that receive heavy traffic. A machine that removes a plug of soil from the lawn is superior to those that only create a hole. Aerifying is not an easy job. For do-it-yourself enthusiasts, it requires renting and operating an aerifier, which is a cumbersome piece of equipment. The easiest solution is hiring a lawn care company to do the job.

Correcting drainage problems

Correcting drainage problems may require grading or the installation of drain tiles. Recently, several companies have introduced innovative drain tile designs that may be installed with a minimum of equipment. The primary requirement is a walk-behind trencher available at rental stores.

Watering

Water deeply and infrequently. Light, frequent irrigation encourages shallow rooting. Early morning is a good time to water because evapotranspiration potential is low, the wind is usually calm, and early watering allows the grass foliage to dry during the day.

Patch bare areas as soon as they appear to prevent invasion by weeds. Stoloniferous grasses such as bermudagrass and St. Augustine grass will readily fill in bare spots if a few plugs or sprigs of healthy grass are planted in these areas. Reseeding is an option with common bermuda grass, centipede grass and tall fescue. Slow-growing grasses such as zoysia grass and centipede grass may be sprigged or plugged, but it is much faster to sod the bare areas.

Soil Testing

Soil test and add lime, if necessary, to bring pH within soil test recommendations. Fertilize according to soil test recommendations to encourage vigorous turf. Do not add additional phosphorus if soil test levels exceed 65 pounds per acre. Additional potash is not needed if potash levels are at 250 pounds per acre or more.

By Sherri Sanders
White County Extension Agent - Agriculture
Cooperative Extension Service
U of A System Division of Agriculture
501-268-5394
ssanders@uada.edu

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